I woke up this morning to find that my crummy $5 tennis shoes that I brought along for hiking had disappeared from the front porch overnight. The same thing had happened to a couple of my friends at Nananu-i-ra with a clear culprit: dogs, or na koli. So, I spent some time wandering around the property looking for my shoes. The owner and a couple other people staying with her were really sweet and helped me look around, and we found one shoe under the house. We had to leave at this point to catch an early bus, but fortunately I found the other shoe down at the end of the driveway, covered in mud, so I rejoiced.
We got on the bus to head to Lavena, a town on the eastern side of Taveuni. If there were roads that allowed us to cut across the island this would probably only take about a half hour, but since there's only one road along the coast of the island this took about 2 or 3 hours. We saw even more cyclone damage on the ride over, with uprooted trees, tons of debris on the dirt road, and power lines laying around everywhere.
A small village we passed by along the way. It's hard to believe that houses like this could stand up to a cyclone.
Once we arrived in Lavena, we realized that the road happens to end in Lavena. It apparently picks back up again at the southern tip of the island, but if you want to go anywhere in between your only hope is to do some hiking. Anyways, we talked to the manager of the lodge where we were planning on staying, who revealed that she didn't really have a room for us to stay but she could set up some tents and mattresses for us so we agreed to that. The place was right next to the village, and we later found out that the lodge had been set up by the Peace Corps in an attempt to try to train villagers in tourism and hospitality management so that they could get jobs. Once we were settled, we got a guide to take us on the Lavena coastal walk along the shore to get to a waterfall in the forest.
On our way along the coastal walk. It was very beautiful the whole way, which is getting to be pretty standard wherever I go in this country. Our guide told us that one of the beaches we passed by was where the second Blue Lagoon movie was filmed, so there's a fun fact.
There were a bunch of rock pedestals on the flats during low tide, which were really cool. I went out and scrambled up one and got stuck so Eli had to help me get off of the damn rock. I saw some prawns in the tidal pools which was thrilling.
A walking bridge to cross a river between two ridges. The guide told us that this reminded him of Indian Jones, haha.
Finally, the waterfall! It took about 2 hours to hike up to it. You have to swim up a riverbed to get to it, so this was as close as my camera was getting to it. Again, my friends with waterproof cameras will unknowingly contribute pictures to this blog once they get posted. There were two waterfalls: one short one, and one very tall one, that emptied into a very deep pool fenced in by craggy black rock. This is part of Bouma national park, a huge park that takes up a considerable amount of the island. The park has a lot of other natural attractions but unfortunately we weren't staying long enough to see everything.
We spent a couple of hours playing around in the waterfalls. The boys jumped off of the higher of the two (our guide later told us that it was 45 feet tall), but I wasn't messing around with that. All of the girls jumped off of a smaller rock face by the shorter waterfall, which still seemed awfully high up once you were standing on top of it. Unfortunately I lost my bracelet that Lizzy gave me from Turkey, which was a bummer since I've been wearing that since I got here. On the way out we found a frog that the guide said was named dreli in Fijian, and he also said that it was a rare species. It jumped off of its spot on the rock wall and was floating downstream, so I picked it up and carried it to a nicer mossy ledge where it could escape onto solid ground if it wanted to.
After hiking back, we all showered and grabbed dinner. A few of my friends ordered dinner from some of the villagers, which turned out to be delicious, if not a little interesting since everyone got a whole fish (with eyes, scales, fins, everything) along with dalo or cassava, chow instant noodles, and these amazing dalo leaf and coconut cream patties that I need to figure out how to make. After dinner, we were invited to a fundraiser in the village for their school, which mostly consisted of singing and dancing and drinking lots of kava. I'm amazed by how everyone here seems to have a good singing voice, especially the men.
This gathering was very large, with the whole village turning out. If you look closely I'm on the right of the center pole, drinking kava. We all sat on palm frond mats under a sheet metal roof, and the different parts of the village were separated with everyone wearing their own colors and banners. The fundraiser consisted of having each group getting up and singing and dancing around the whole structure, eventually making their way up to the front where they would deposit money into the bucket for the school. It was very interesting and a lot of fun. I actually talked to the chief of the village for a while (I had no idea he was the chief so I hope I didn't say anything offensive) about the school - it turns out that they only built it in January. Before then, all of the children had to get up at 3 or 4am to walk and catch an early bus to Bouma, which is 7km away, and then walk back home in the evening. He also said that the village had had a handful of homes swept away by the cyclone, but thankfully no one had died or gotten hurt.
As soon as our group of girls sat down, we were overwhelmed by small Fijian girls wanting to play. It was pretty apparent that adults don't really spend too much time with the children, and that the young ones are pretty much raised by the older kids, so it must have been fun for them to have some attention from adults for once.
My roommate Kirsten, playing the pinchy hand game where you pinch the skin on the back of another's hand and shake the whole procession up and down. I wasn't a big fan of this one since little Fijian fingers hurt when pinching intensely. The little girls were big fans of hand clapping games, like the ones that we played when we were little. Kirsten and Natalie knew a lot of these games but I had forgotten them all, so I had to have the Fijian kids teach me them. They all thought it was funny that I sucked at them. They were also fascinated by my digital camera, and loved looking at their own pictures after I took them.
I stayed up for a while drinking kava with Cliff and some Fijians after the children all went to bed, and we eventually got tired too and headed back to our lodge. This was the worst night ever, and I didn't sleep at all. I started out trying to sleep in the tents, which were roughly 200 degrees. I then moved out to sleep on a tarp outside of the tents, which got dropped after I kept having bugs crawl up my sulu and all over my legs. Next, I tried sleeping on a mattress on the floor of the lobby, but was getting eaten alive by mosquitos. I ended my night sitting up watching the sunrise, which was very pretty, but didn't really help my lack of sleep. With the sunrise all of the mosquitos were replaced by swarms of flies, which apparently weren't a problem until after the cyclone came through. No one slept well that night, so we all spent the morning waiting for the bus to come by to take us back to Wairiki. I laid out on the beach with Nichole, and we had a couple of Fijian girls come by with a large bucket filled with hermit crabs - I asked them in broken Fijian if they were going to eat them, to which they grinned and nodded. I can't imagine hermit crabs taste too good. We walked back with the girls along the beach, having tickle fights along the way and helping them climb up palm trees. I attempted to climb up a slanted palm that they had been running up on two feet, but I couldn't make it more than a couple of steps. I'm convinced that all Fijian children are born with the natural ability to just SCALE EVERYTHING. It's ridiculous.